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Some affected vehicles may experience any or all of the following DTCs and/or symptoms after the vehicle is operated in very cold weather (approximately ?22o F (?30oC) or colder) after a short drive (5 ? 10 minutes) followed by a 15 ? 20 minute cold soak.DTC P0657 P1590 U0101 None U0100 P0201 ? P0206 This condition is caused by condensation freezing inside the relay, rendering it inoperative. Should you suspect very cold weather has caused this condition in an affected vehicle, follow the procedure below to identify and replace described relays with modified parts. AFFECTED VEHICLES 2007?10 Outlander (2.4L 4 cyl & 3.0L V6) built prior to November 16, 2009. 2008?10 Lancer, built prior to November 16, 2009. 2008?10 Lancer Evolution built prior to November 16, 2009. 2009?10 Lancer Sportback built prior to November 16, 2009. PROCEDURE 1. Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (off) position. 2. Locate the relay box inside the engine compartment and open the cover. 3. Refer to the illustrations on pages 2 through 4 of this TSB and replace relays as follows: Vehicles equipped with A/T or CVT ? Replace the Injector Relay, Starter Relay, Throttle Actuator Control Motor Relay, AT/CVT Control Relay with p/n 8627A024, and replace the MFI relay with p/n MR400709. Vehicles equipped with M/T or SST ? Replace the Injector Relay, Starter Relay, Throttle Actuator Control Motor Relay with p/n 8627A024, and replace the MFI relay with p/n MR400709. MIL Status ON ON ON OFF OFF OFF Relay ETV A/T (CVT) A/T (CVT) STARTER MFI Injector Symptom Engine torque is limited Limp Home Mode Limp Home Mode Engine will not turn over Engine will not start Engine will not start

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1. Unscrew the shift knob by rotating it counter-clockwise and put it in a safe place. Remove the small plastic adapter at the base of the shift knob (pictured lower left) as well. Keep this piece for re-installation later. 2. Remove the ashtray in front of the shifter. 3. Remove the small storage compartment in front of the handbrake by pulling up on it as pictured to the left. 4. Begin removal of the center console by lifting the rear portion that surrounds the handbrake. Be sure the storage compartment lid is open to allow the back half of the rear portion to move freely. 5. The front portion of the rear half of the console can now be lifted and separated from the rest of the console. It is held in place by clips from underneath so it will pop free by lifting upward. 6. Turn this portion of the console on it’s side to gain access to the wires beneath it. Disconnect the plastic connector for the heated seats switches. 7. Use a Philips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws directly behind the shifter. 8. The front portion of the console with the shift boot attached can now be lifted, however it cannot be removed from the car yet as there is a clip holding a wire at the front which must be removed as shown in the next step. 9. Use needle nose pliers to compress the tabs on the clip at the front part of this section. With the tabs depressed, the clip can be pushed through and out from the under side. 10. Turn this portion of the console over and disconnect the plastic plug for the lighter by pulling on the plastic portion. Do not pull on the wires. There are no tabs to depress on this clip, the connector simply slides off. The front portion of the console can now be removed from the car and put in a safe place. 11. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws in front of the shifter that have been exposed by removing the front portion of the console in the previous step.

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1. Remove tailgate cover 5. Slide bracket into tailgate over studs 9. Connect actuator to loom and use cable tie/clip to secure cable. 2. Remove nut 6. Replace both nuts 3. Remove nut 7. Remove cable cover 11. Run the cable along the chassis, taking care to ensure it is kept away from heat sources. 12. Bring the cable through the grommet located under the passen- ger seat. 13. Remove the door sill trim from the passenger side front door. 14. Connect the wires as follows. TruckLok Vehicle Red Blue 4. Slide bracket into tailgate 8. Feed cable through grommet 15. Close all doors and test using vehicle’s key. Do not test repeatedly as the actuator may overheat. 16. Replace all trim and tailgate cover.

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ADJUSTMENTS FRONT WIPER ARM ADJUSTMENT NOTE: On Colt, Colt 200 and Summit, front wiper arm position is preset at factory. Before removing arm, mark arm position to motor crank for installation reference. Except Colt, Colt 200 & Summit Ensure wiper motor is in park position. Position wiper arm and blade assembly so tip of blade is specified distance above front window trim. See FRONT WIPER ADJUSTMENT SPECIFICATIONS table. FRONT WIPER ADJUSTMENT SPECIFICATIONS TABLE REAR WIPER ARM ADJUSTMENT NOTE: Diamante, Galant, Pickup and Ram-50 are not equipped with rear wipers. Ensure wiper motor is in park position. Position wiper arm and blade assembly so tip of blade is specified distance from edge of window. See the REAR WIPER ADJUSTMENT SPECIFICATIONS table.

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Mitsubishi specified certain electrolytic capacitors from 1989 through 1994 made by Rubycon Electric. Here is the most common culprit of ECU trouble: Over time and at repeated elevated temperatures these start to degrade. The liquid electrolyte begins leaking from the seal on the bottom plug of the capacitor. This liquid is very corrosive and conductive. It interacts with the humidity coating on the circuit board causing an array of problems. Among these are: injector trouble, erratic start, stalling, rough idle, check engine light, etc. This leaked substance begins to spread and react with metals in its path. It gradually causes erosion of copper traces and shorts in circuit paths. At first you may notice intermittent problems that occur from this. Most often though, the degrading capacitors continue to operate within tolerance and the damage remains minimal. This is where we want to pull the unit and get busy. If nothing is done, problems surmount. The breakdown of the humidity seal, corrosion and shorting of circuits, and ultimately, the loss of other critical components in the ECU. (i.e. large voltage spikes that cause major damage) all lead up to an untimely demise. At this point you may actually smell something burning inside the unit. (This fried electrical smell is putrid to say the least) The idea though, is to get to the source of the problem before you reach this point. Not to say that it isn’t still repairable. But the longer the problem is ignored, the more difficult a task it will be indeed.