Auto Repair Manual Free Download and ReviewsFree download ebook pdf files automotive manual

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CAUTION: Since the engine is not free wheeling if the crankshaft (6303) or the camshafts (6250) are moved in any manner during removal and installation the crankshaft and camshafts must be resynchronized. These steps are located in Engine Assembly Steps 36 to 48. 1. Remove the engine front cover (6019); refer to Engine Front Cover — 5.4L in this section. 2. Remove the crankshaft sensor ring from the crankshaft. 3. CAUTION: Unless otherwise instructed, at no time when the timing chains are removed and the cylinder heads are installed is the crankshaft or camshaft to be rotated. Severe piston and valve damage will occur. Position the crankshaft with the Crankshaft Holding Tool as shown. 4. Install and fully tighten the Camshaft Holding Tools on both camshafts. 5. Remove the timing chain tensioning system from both timing chain/belts (6268). 1. Remove the bolts. 2. Remove the timing chain tensioners (6L266). 3. Remove the timing chain tensioner arms (6L253). 6. CAUTION: Unless otherwise instructed, at no time when the timing chains are removed and the cylinders heads are installed is the crankshaft or camshaft to be rotated. Severe piston and valve damage will occur. CAUTION: Do not remove the Camshaft Holding Tool. Remove the LH and RH timing chains and the crankshaft sprockets (6306). ? Remove the Crankshaft Holding Tool. ? Remove the RH timing chain from the camshaft sprocket. ? Remove the RH timing chain and outer crankshaft sprocket from the crankshaft. ? Repeat for the LH timing chain and crankshaft sprocket. 7. Remove both timing chain guides (6K297). ? Remove the bolts. ? Remove both timing chain guides. 1. CAUTION: Timing chain procedures must be followed exactly or damage to valves and pistons will result. CAUTION: Do not compress the ratchet assembly. This will damage the ratchet assembly. Compress the tensioner plunger, using an edge of a vise. 2. Using a small screwdriver or pick, push back and hold the ratchet mechanism. 3. While holding the ratchet mechanism, push the ratchet arm back into the tensioner housing.

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NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100ºF (38ºC). 1. ‘98-99 models: Remove the throttle body cover (A), ignition wire cover (B) and intake manifold covers (C). ‘00-02 models: Remove the throttle body cover (A), intake manifold covers (B) and intake manifold cover stay (C). ‘98-99 models: ‘00-02 models: 2. Remove the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) canister hose (A) from the throttle body. 3. Remove the vacuum hose (B) and breather pipe (C), then remove the intake air duct (D). 4. Remove the throttle cable (A) and cruise control cable (B) by loosening the locknuts (C), then slip the cable ends out of the accelerator linkage. Take care not to bend the cables when removing them. Always replace any kinked cable with a new one. 5. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose (A), vacuum hoses (B) and Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose (C). 6. Remove the vacuum hose (A) (’98-99 models), breather hose (B) and water bypass hoses (C). 7. Remove the intake manifold. 8. Remove the cylinder head covers. 9. Remove the front upper cover. 10. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC. Align the pointer (A) on the back cover with the No. 1 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley. 11. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you’re going to check. Intake: Exhaust: 0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in.) 0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.013 in.)

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REMOVAL NOTE: Turn the crankshaft pulley so the No. 1 piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) before removing the belt. Inspect the water pump after removing the timing belt. Replace the timing belt and timing balancer belt at 105,000 miles (168,000 km) according to the maintenance schedule (normal conditions/severe conditions). If the vehicle is regularly driven in one or more of the following conditions, replace the timing belt and timing balancer belt at 60,000 miles (U.S.A.) 100,000 km (Canada). In very high temperatures (over 110°F, 43°C). In very low temperatures (under -20°F, -29°C). 1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the radio, then write down the frequencies for the radio’s preset buttons. 2. Disconnect the battery negative terminal first, then the positive terminal. 3. Remove the wheel well splash shield. 4. Loosen the adjusting bolt, locknut and mounting bolt, then remove the Power Steering (P/S) pump belt. 5. Remove the alternator terminal and connector. 6. Loosen the adjusting bolt, mounting bolt and lock nut, then remove the alternator belt. 7. Remove the side engine mount. NOTE: Support the engine with a jack before removing the side engine mount and upper bracket assembly is removed. Make sure to place a cushion between the oil pan and the jack. 8. Remove the dipstick and the tube. 9. Remove the cylinder head cover. NOTE: The procedures in steps 10 and 11 are for reusing the timing belt. For replacing the timing belt, skip these procedures and go to step 12. 10. Use an open-end wrench to loosen the maintenance bolt. If it cannot be loosened with an open-end wrench, a box wrench can be used after removing the lock pin. NOTE: Use of a tool should be limited to initial loosening only. 11. Unscrew the maintenance bolt by hand until it stops. The auto-tensioner bracket is now fixed. NOTE: Never use a tool to unscrew the maintenance bolt after initial loosening it. If the auto-tensioner has been extended and the timing belt cannot be installed, remove the auto-tensioner, compress it and reinstall it. 12. Remove the middle cover. NOTE: Do not use the middle cover to store removed items. 13. Remove the pulley bolt and crankshaft pulley.

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2004-2009 Mazda3 2006-2009 Mazda5 2003-2008 Mazda6 with L3 Engine 2006-2009 MX-5 DESCRIPTION This bulletin provides guidelines for repairing internal engine noise issues (such as Knocking, Ticking, Tapping, Rattling, Grinding, Squealing, Squeaking, Thumping, Whining, Creaking, Popping, Clicking, Roaring, Loud, High-pitched etc). When engine replacement is necessary, use short block or long block according to following guideline. Do not replace long block assembly if short block assembly or cylinder head assembly will resolve concern. Guideline for Short Engine/Cylinder Head Replacement SERVICE POINTS TO DETERMINE PARTS REUSEABILITY 1. Cylinder Head Check for contact mark between the cylinder head (A) and piston (B). Check for carbon peeling or valve to piston interference. – If OK, flush cylinder head (with valves assembled) with kerosene and blow oil passages with regulated shop air. – If no good, contact MASH for authorization to replace cylinder head assembly and related damaged components.

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NOTICE: To avoid paint damage, painted surfaces surrounding the master cylinder should be covered. 1. Using a line wrench, disconnect steel hydraulic line. The brake hydraulic system reservoir provides brake fluid for the clutch control system. To prevent loss of brake fluid during clutch master cylinder removal, the disconnected hydraulic fluid transfer hose must be plugged or directed into a suitable container. 2. Disconnect brake fluid transfer hose. 3. From engine compartment, remove lower mounting nut. 4. From passenger compartment, remove upper nut from clutch master cylinder mounting stud. 5. Remove clutch master cylinder and gasket. DISASSEMBLY 1. Press down on the piston and remove the stop wire with needle-nose pliers. 2. With stop wire removed, use compressed air to remove the piston and secondary cup assembly, primary cup and return spring. 3. Use brake fluid to clean inner parts.