Auto Repair Manual Free Download and ReviewsFree download ebook pdf files automotive manual

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ISSUE Some 2005-2010 Mustang vehicles built before 4/5/2009 and equipped with a 4.6L engine and manual transmission, may exhibit an oil-canning or exhaust rattle/buzz around 2000 – 2500 RPM during the first few minutes of driving after a cold start. The sound goes away after the car warms up. The concern may be caused by the separator plate, between the rear face of the engine block and the transmission housing, vibrating and/or contacting the flywheel. ACTION Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition. SERVICE PROCEDURE 1. Remove transmission per Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 308-03B. 2. Pry separator plate from the rear face of the block alignment dowels and slide it out from between block and flywheel. Replace with new service part. 3. Install transmission per WSM, Section 308-03B. NOTE INSTALL NEW SEPARATOR PLATE TO TRANSMISSION BOLTS IF MISSING OR DAMAGED. (FIGURE 1)

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DTC P1259: A problem in the VTEC Oil Pressure Switch circuit or VTEC Solenoid Valve circuit Special Tools Required Pressure Gauge Adaptor 07NAJ-P07010A A/T Low Pressure Gauge W/Panel 07406-0070300 A/T Pressure Hose, 2,210 mm 07MAJ-PY4011A A/T Pressure Adaptor 07MAJ-PY40120 1. Do the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) reset procedure. 2. Start the engine. 3. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on). 4. Road test the vehicle: Accelerate in [2] position to an engine speed over 4,000 rpm. Hold that engine speed for at least 2 seconds. If DTC P1259 is not repeated during the 1st road test, repeat this test two more times. Is DTC P1259 indicated? YES – Go to step 5. NO – 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Disconnect the VTEC oil pressure switch connector. 7. Check for continuity on the VTEC oil pressure switch between the pressure switch connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2. Is there continuity? YES – Go to step 8. NO – Replace the VTEC oil pressure switch.? Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose wires at the VTEC solenoid valve and PCM.?

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ISSUE Some 2007-2008 F-150 and Mark LT vehicles built between 12/4/2006 to 5/20/2008 and equipped with a 5.4L 3V and 4R75E, may exhibit an engine RPM flare during light acceleration during the 3-4 upshift. This would only occur at road speed ranges from 25-30 MPH (40-48 Km/h). No DTCs or other drivability or transmission issues would be present. ACTION Reprogram the powertrain control module (PCM) to the latest calibration using IDS release 54.5 and higher. This new calibration is not included in the VCM 2008.3 DVD. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com.

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SYMPTOM The vehicle may have one or more of these symptoms: • Idle fluctuates between 500 and 1,500 RPM (The fluctuation is more pronounced before the engine reaches normal operating temperature.) • Shudder or judder when accelerating from a stop or just before stopping • Surging at highway speeds between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM • Excessive shock when the engine is cold and you start to accelerate • A “coo” sound, lasting about 5 to 10 seconds, after coming to a stop PROBABLE CAUSE The problem may have one or more of these causes: • TCM control unit programming is too sensitive. • The start clutch assembly is worn. • The start clutch control valve is contaminated. CORRECTIVE ACTION Replace the start clutch assembly, the start clutch control valve, and the TCM.REPAIR PROCEDURE NOTE: Make sure the work surface and the CVT are completely clean. Use lint-free towels, and use a dedicated, clean solvent tank for cleaning the CVT parts. If you do not keep everything very clean, the repair may not be successful. 1. Soak the new start clutch assembly in Honda ATF-Z1 for at least 30 minutes. NEW START CLUTCH ASSEMBLY 2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. See page 14-304 of the 1996–00 Civic Service Manual. 3. Cover with clean shop towels all of the openings in the transmission and anything else that might get damaged by water and cleaning chemicals (axle openings, breather, and electrical connectors). Clean all the dirt and grease off of the transmission before you start disassembly.

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Here is one idea that will let you utilize the Surbo system to the maximum. Attaching a boost gauge, you will be able to get the most power per throttle travel (->press less, get more power). It’s not for measuring a boost output, but as a means of consistently commanding the Surbo, especially under low-torque situations at very low rpm and/or in a very high gear. If you do not wish to install a gauge, just reading this page will help you understand the Surbo system better. Note: “gauge” and “meter” refer to the same thing. Please also refer to How The Surbo System Works to see how the boost gauge (white circle) is positioned within and related to the Surbo system. Why A Boost Gauge? When you have your gauge installed and you drive normally, you will realize that it is always pointing up and down. This means that supply of air (from the air intake) is not equal to demand for air (by the engine), especially during acceleration, or after gearchanges, or driving under different loads or terrain, or a combination of the above. When the demand for air is not met by the air intake (indicated by a falling needle on the meter), this can reduce engine power. With the meter attached to and reading from the air manifold (the holding area between the throttle and engine), once you balance the needle at any point by moving your right foot, supply=demand and the airflow will be optimized. By moving your foot, the Surbo is activated automatically! Background The boost gauge had found a new use as a Surbo trigger on our test car. While we wanted our customers to have the same fun, problems resulted as customers could not choose or find suitable gauges or supervise the job as stated; almost always, based on user feedback and our own checks, unknown installers did poor jobs that caused leaks to the vacuum and resulted in Surbo failure as well. So we have to write a clear guide to prevent failure during installation, for you to use in supervising the job. You can’t just leave it to the installers as they won’t care about giving you a perfect seal.