Filed Under (Subaru) by admin on 10-06-2016
Removal & Installation 1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel. Using chisel, unstake axle nut and remove. Remove brake
caliper assembly from steering knuckle without disconnecting hydraulic line. Wire caliper out of way. Disconnect ABS speed sensor (if equipped). 2. Remove brake rotor. Disconnect ball joint from knuckle. Remove tie rod cotter pin and nut. Using a puller, disconnect tie rod end from steering knuckle. Scribe reference mark on strut-to-knuckle retaining bolts. Remove steering knuckle-to-strut retaining bolt(s). 3. Remove axle shaft from steering knuckle by using Adapter (922493000) and Remover (921122000). See Fig. 4 . Remove steering knuckle from vehicle. 4. Mount knuckle assembly on Stand (927080000). Mount Hub Remover (927060000) on knuckle assembly, and press out hub. Remove inner seal and snap ring from knuckle. Support knuckle and press out inner bearing.
5. Remove ABS sensor ring from hub (if equipped). Using bearing splitter, remove bearing and seal from hub. Mount knuckle in press and install inner, outer bearings and seals with appropriate adapters. Ensure bearings are properly lubricated. Install snap ring before installing inner seal. 6. Mount ABS sensor ring to hub (if equipped). Press hub in knuckle assembly. Mount knuckle on vehicle. To complete installation, reverse removal procedures. Tighten bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 22-02-2011
All vehicles 1. Remove the valve cover. For additional information, refer to Section 303-01C. 2. Disconnect the fuel injector electrical connector. Two-piece head tube 3. NOTE: Some engines may have been updated with a new two-piece crankcase-to-head tube. If the crankcase-to-head tube has been updated it will have a hex head. If the high-pressure oil rail has a hex head, remove the crankcase-to-head tube assembly. Remove and discard the O-ring seals. All vehicles 4. NOTE: Do not remove the oil rail end plugs or acoustic wave attenuator port fitting. Service parts are not available to support the components. NOTE: Use a tool like the KD Tool #58965 or Lisle T30 to avoid interference with the evaporator case. Remove the bolts and the high-pressure oil rail. One-piece head tube 5. NOTE: The rings on the crankcase-to-head tube are to be used to pry the tube assembly from the branch tube assembly or the oil rail assembly. Remove the crankcase-to-head tube. Remove and discard the O-ring seal. Two-piece head tube 6. CAUTION: Use care not to deform the lower crankcase-to-head tube during removal. If the tube is damaged, a new tube must be installed. NOTE: Use a shop towel and metal brake parts cleaner to remove the oil residue prior to removing. If the updated crankcase-to-head tube separated, using a pair of soft jawed pliers, remove the lower crankcase-to-head tube. All vehicles 7. CAUTION: Do not attempt to apply battery voltage to the fuel injector or damage to the fuel injector will occur. Using the special tool, push the fuel injector electrical connector out of the rocker arm carrier. 8. Prior to removing the injector assembly, insert clean shop towels in the oil drain holes adjacent to each glow plug. 9. CAUTION: Failure to account for all snap rings or pieces prior to placing the vehicle back in service can cause engine damage. A missing snap ring can be ingested into the lube oil system, causing severe engine damage. CAUTION: To prevent engine damage, do not use air tools to remove the fuel injectors. The snap ring that extracts the injector can dislodge and fall into the oil drain hole. NOTE: There is no need to drain the fuel rail. NOTE: If engine coolant is found in the combustion chambers, it may be necessary to install a new injector sleeve. For additional information, refer to Fuel Injector Sleeve in this section. NOTE: Use a tool like Snap-On SDMT440 torx to avoid damaging the fuel injector plastic and to avoid interference with the evaporator case. Remove the bolt, fuel injector hold-down clamp and fuel injector. Installation One-piece head tube
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 31-01-2011
The Ford Triton Spark plug holes have been divided into three Types for model years 1993 through 2005. The drawings below will help you identify each Type. Each individual cylinder head will have the same Type for all spark plug holes. Type 1 Type 2 Type 3 Cleaning: 1. Remove spark plug from a good spark plug hole, chuck the FT5FTCB brush supplied in the kit into a slow speed drill, and clean the bottom of the hole. Note: If procedure is being done in vehicle clean hole using a vacuum cleaner to remove debris. Caution: Do not use the brush to clean the hole after the repair insert has been installed. Identifying: Perform Steps 2 through 4 to determine cylinder head Type: 2. Gauge the spark plug hole using FT5CG Tooling Type Gauge; this is to be used as a comparison when gauging the defective spark plug hole in step number 4. Pull down on the gauge until the snap ring seats against the top of the probe. Push the gauge down into the spark plug well until it seats firmly at the bottom. Make sure that the upper part of the tool is up high enough to allow the gauge to reach the bottom of the hole. Allow the upper alignment bushing to center the tool in the hole. Let the rod float in the upper alignment bushing without tightening the thumb screw. 4. Pull the gauge up out of the well and read the chart on the side of the gauge by comparing the portion of the gauge that is exposed when pushed into the the spark plug hole to determine if the head is Type 1, 2, or 3. Note: the difference between Type 1 and Type 3 is small. Double check to make sure the reading repeats. If your gauge readings are in question remove another spark plug from a good hole and compare gauge readings.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 23-09-2010
Installation All vehicles NOTE: CAUTION: Install new D-ring seals on the crankcase-to-head tube. It requires several hours after installation for the D-ring seals to relax back to their original size. If the tube assembly is installed before the D-ring seals have relaxed, damage to the D-ring seals can occur. Late build shown, early build similar. Fig. 10: Installing New D-Ring Seals On Crankcase-To-Head Tube Assembly 1. Install new D-ring seals on the crankcase-to-head tube assemblies. CAUTION: If the fuel injector oil inlet D-shaped O-ring is damaged, a new fuel injector must be installed. Fig. 11: Identifying Fuel Injector O Rings And Electrical Connector Install new O-ring seals and copper washer on the fuel injector. Lubricate the fuel injector and O-ring seals liberally with clean engine oil. CAUTION: Failure to tighten the injector correctly can lead to engine failure. CAUTION: To prevent engine damage, do not use air tools to install the fuel injectors. The snap ring that extracts the injector can dislodge and fall into the oil drain hole.
Filed Under (Subaru) by admin on 07-07-2010
TOOL REQUIRED ST1 927080000 Hub Stand ST2 927420000 Hub Remover ST1 927430000 Housing Stand ST2 927440000 Bearing Remover ST2 927460000 Oil Seal Installer Or Equivalent DISASSEMBLE 1. Remove knuckle. Refer to Steering and Suspension. 2. Using ST1 and ST2, remove hub from rear housing. 3. Remove back plate from rear housing. 4. Using a standard screwdriver, remove outer and inner oil seals. CAUTION: Use new oil seals. 5. Using flat bladed screwdriver, remove snap ring. 6. Using ST1 and ST2, remove bearing by pressing inner race. ST1 927430000 HOUSING STAND ST2 927440000 BEARING REMOVER CAUTION: Do not remove bearing unless damaged. Do not re-use bearing after removal. 7. Remove tone wheel bolts and remove tone wheel from hub (only vehicle equipped with ABS).