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Some 2006-2007 Freestar and Monterey vehicles may experience a melted or damaged spark plug electrode, malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) with diagnostic trouble codes (DTC’s) P030X, rough idle, engine knock/ping on acceleration. Pre-ignition (which yields these symptoms) may be caused by water entering the powertrain control module (PCM). ACTION: Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition. SERVICE PROCEDURE 1. Remove PCM from vehicle. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-14. 2. Remove the PCM cover by carefully bending back the four (4) retaining clips holding the galvanized metal cover to the top plate. (Figure 1) Figure 1 – Article 07-14-1 3. Look for evidence of water within the PCM (liquid water, rust, water stains or deposits). (Figure 2) If found – obtain a replacement PCM before continuing on to Step 4. If no water is found, continue on to step 4 with the vehicle’s original PCM. Figure 2 – Article 07-14-1 4. Set the PCM top plate in a clean, dry location where the circuitry will be protected from damage. 5. With the PCM cover removed, drill a 1/4″ hole on each of the four (4) corners of the PCM cover. Get as close to the corner as possible. (Figure 3) Figure 3 – Article 07-14-1 6. De-burr the edges on both inside and outside surfaces. (Figure 3) Be sure to vacuum off all chips and wipe off all metal dust and any machining oil. 7. Clean the surfaces of the PCM cover with Motorcraft ZC-21 (Metal Surface Cleaner) or equivalent. Also clean the edges of the PCM top plate. The metal surfaces must be completely clean before proceeding to Step 8. 8. Apply Motorcraft TA-29 Ultra Silicone Sealant to all edges depicted. (Figure 4, 5, 6, 7) Proceed directly to Step 9 – do not let the sealant skin over. NOTE: Motorcraft TA-32 can NOT be used since its constituents may damage the PCM circuitry.

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Vehicles equipped with a manual transmission 1. CAUTION: If the clutch disc and pressure plate are to be reinstalled, bolts must be removed evenly or permanent damage to the diaphragm spring will occur resulting in complete clutch release. NOTE: If the parts are to be reused, index-mark the clutch pressure plate to the flywheel. Remove the bolts, the clutch pressure plate, and the clutch disc. All vehicles 2. Remove the flywheel or flexplate. 3. Remove the engine-to-transmission spacer plate. 4. Mount the engine to a suitable engine stand and remove the lifting equipment and Lifting Eyes. 5. CAUTION: Do not pull on the spark plug wires. Twist the boot while pulling upwards. Disconnect the spark plug wires. 6. Disconnect the ignition coil electrical connector. 7. Remove the bolts and the ignition coil assembly. 8. Remove the bolts and the generator mounting bracket. 9. Remove the four bolts and the coolant pump pulley. 10. Remove the bolts and the crankshaft pulley. 11. Remove the crankshaft damper bolt.

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The Ford Triton Spark plug holes have been divided into three Types for model years 1993 through 2005. The drawings below will help you identify each Type. Each individual cylinder head will have the same Type for all spark plug holes. Type 1 Type 2 Type 3 Cleaning: 1. Remove spark plug from a good spark plug hole, chuck the FT5FTCB brush supplied in the kit into a slow speed drill, and clean the bottom of the hole. Note: If procedure is being done in vehicle clean hole using a vacuum cleaner to remove debris. Caution: Do not use the brush to clean the hole after the repair insert has been installed. Identifying: Perform Steps 2 through 4 to determine cylinder head Type: 2. Gauge the spark plug hole using FT5CG Tooling Type Gauge; this is to be used as a comparison when gauging the defective spark plug hole in step number 4. Pull down on the gauge until the snap ring seats against the top of the probe. Push the gauge down into the spark plug well until it seats firmly at the bottom. Make sure that the upper part of the tool is up high enough to allow the gauge to reach the bottom of the hole. Allow the upper alignment bushing to center the tool in the hole. Let the rod float in the upper alignment bushing without tightening the thumb screw. 4. Pull the gauge up out of the well and read the chart on the side of the gauge by comparing the portion of the gauge that is exposed when pushed into the the spark plug hole to determine if the head is Type 1, 2, or 3. Note: the difference between Type 1 and Type 3 is small. Double check to make sure the reading repeats. If your gauge readings are in question remove another spark plug from a good hole and compare gauge readings.

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Some 1997-2008 vehicles equipped with a 4.6L 2V, 5.4L 2V, or 6.8L 2V engine and aluminum cylinder heads may experience a spark plug port with stripped or missing threads. ACTION Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition for non warrantable repairs. SERVICE PROCEDURE Ford Motor Company now authorizes LOCK-N-STITCH aluminum insert and tool kit as a proper repair procedure. Follow the procedure included in the tool kit for using the tools and inserts. Tool kits and inserts can be ordered from Rotunda by calling 1-800-Rotunda (768- 8632). Choose option two (2), part number 302-00001. NOTE FORD MOTOR COMPANY HAS DETERMINED THAT REPAIRS MADE WITH THESE ALUMINUM INSERTS AND LOCK-N-STITCH TOOLS DO NOT AFFECT THE HEAT TRANSFER FUNCTION BETWEEN THE SPARK PLUG AND THE CYLINDER HEAD.

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SECONDARY CIRCUIT CHECK CAUTION: When checking secondary voltage, do not remove spark plug wires from spark plugs No. 3 on 4-cylinder, No. 1 or 5 on 6-cylinder and No. 3 or 4 on V8 Engines. 1. Disconnect coil wire from distributor cap. Use insulated pliers to hold wire approximately 1/2″ from engine block or intake manifold. 2. Crank engine and check for spark at gap. If no spark occurs, turn off ignition switch, and check resistance of secondary coil windings. See Ignition Coil Resistance Check, Secondary Resistance. Replace ignition coil if outside specifications. 3. If spark occurred in step 2), connect coil wire to distributor cap. Remove wire from 1 spark plug. Using insulated pliers, hold wire 1/2″ from engine head while cranking engine. Check for spark. 4. If spark occurs, check for fuel problems or incorrect timing. If no sparks occur, check for defective rotor or distributor cap or for defective spark plug wires. CURRENT FLOW CHECK 1. Remove connector from ignition coil. Remove positive wire from connector, then negative wire. Connect ammeter between positive terminal of coil and disconnected positive wire. Connect jumper wire from negative terminal to good ground. 2. Turn ignition switch “ON”. Current flow should be approximately 7 amps., but should not exceed 7.6 amps. If more than 7.6 amps., replace ignition coil. 3. With ammeter still connected to coil positive terminal, remove jumper wire from negative terminal. Connect coil Green wire to negative terminal. Current flow should be approximately 4 amps. 4. If less than 3.5 amps., check for poor connections in 4-wire and 3-wire connectors or for poor ground at distributor ground screw. 5. If current flow is greater than 5 amps., the control unit is defective and must be replaced. Start engine. Normal current flow with engine running is 2.0-2.4 amps. If outside of specifications, replace control