Auto Repair Manual Free Download and ReviewsFree download ebook pdf files automotive manual

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Step 1. Wait for the engine to cool down and gather listed materials. Working on a hot engine is incred- ibly dumb. Step 2. Open the hood and remove the front panel and airbox. (Fig. 1.) Step 3. Protect the air intake with a cover (I used aluminum foil. (Fig. 2.) Fig. 1. Engine all assembled Step 4. Locate the spark plugs. This engine has six-cylindars and twelve spark plugs (six on each side). Select one side to do at a time. Step 5. Starting with the spark plug furthest from the firewall, remove the electrical plug and unscrew unit from the engine using the T-25 Torx bit. Use the magnet to ensure the screw is not dropped into the engine. (Fig. 3.) Step 6. Spray the spark plug boots with WD-40 to loosen them for removal. Wait a few minutes to allow solvent to penetrate. Step 7. Use the 17 mm wrench to pry the boot off from the spark plug. This is the biggest pain in the ass. Try to loosen the boot by turning the boot using your hand. Be careful not to damage or crimp the boot if using the pliers. Fig. 2. Protect your engine! Cover the air intake from accidental beer spilling! Fig. 3. Spark plugs on driver’s side with wires and harnesses intact. Step 8. engine. position labeled, engine. Do this for the entire side of the This part took the longest. Label the of the modules. The boots are both on the module and on the (Fig. 4 and 5.) Fig. 5. The engine has embossed lettering to show which boot goes where. Fig. 6. Old and new spark plugs. I used OEM spark plugs, as seen in Fig. 7. Fig. 4. Engine without spark plug modules. Step 9. Remove the spark plug. This is a pain in the ass as well. Remember, lefty- loosy, righty-tighty. Use the appropriate-sized extension to remove the spark plug. You may have to change extensions mid way. Step 10. Insert new spark plug. Spray with WD-40 before screwing in to allow for easier removal the next time you change spark plugs. Tighten to 28 N m. Step 11. Re-attach boots to the spark plugs, making sure you place them in the right order. You will feel or hear a pop when they connect. Also re-attach modules to the engine block. Step 12. Repeat on other side of engine, noting the number of new and used spark plugs as you go along. Step 13. Once complete, remove cover that was placed on the air intake and replace air box. You are done! There will be some smoke and smell as the WD-40 burns off the engine and plugs.

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Tests/Procedures: Potential Causes: 1. Perform a fuel injector balance test for all cylinders. If a fuel injector concern exists, it is possible to misfuel an entire bank of the engine, causing multiple cylinders on the same bank to misfire even though the root cause is a single fuel injector. The engine computer recognizes all the extra oxygen and adds fuel to the engine bank. This is verifiable by higher injector pulse on the affected bank. 2. Use the scan tool to turn off the fuel enable. This is found using the special functions/output controls of the scan tool. This will maintain fuel trim numbers at 0%. Check for the entire bank to stop misfiring and concentrate on a single cylinder misfire. The single cylinder misfire can be the cause of the O2 sensor showing lean exhaust. 3. Check for excessive exhaust backpressure. This can affect only one bank if equipped with 2 catalytic converters. This is often verifiable by reduced injector pulse on the affected bank. 4. Swap the position 1 O2 sensors side to side to see if the misfires move to the other bank of the engine. If so, replace the O2 sensor. 5. Remove bank 1 spark plugs, check for rich or lean plug condition, clean or replace. 6. Disconnect both front O2 sensors, road test. This will also keep the fuel trim numbers at 0%, similar to step #2. 7. Remove both front O2 sensors and road test. This will verify that the exhaust is not only slightly restricted. Restricted Exhaust System Lean Misfiring Cylinder Oxygen Sensor

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Engine Electrical > Firing Orders Firing Orders To avoid confusion, always replace spark plugs and wires one at a time. Replacing spark plugs and wires one at a time will help prevent incorrect wire routing or cross-firing resulting from an incorrect firing order. If more than one wire is to be disconnected at a single time, be sure to tag all of the cables to assure proper installation. Also, be disconnecting the cables, compare the firing order and routing to these diagrams and note any differences for installation purposes. This will help assure the wires are properly installed.

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1. Remove the engine front cover. 2. Lower the vehicle. Caution: ^ This pulse wheel is used in several different engines. Install the pulse wheel with the keyway in the slot stamped 20-25-34Y-30M (Color Blue). 3. Remove the ignition pulse wheel. 4. Install the damper bolt. Note: ^ RH shown, LH similar. 5. Remove the LH and RH spark plugs. 6. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to position the crankshaft keyway in the 11 o’clock position and position the camshafts in the correct position. This will position the number one cylinder at Top Dead Center (TDC). ^ Verify that the camshafts are correctly located. If not, rotate the crankshaft one additional turn and re-check. 7. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 120 degrees, to the 3 o’clock position to locate the RH camshafts in the neutral position. 8. Verify that the RH camshafts are in the neutral position. 9. Remove the RH timing chain and tensioner arm. 1. Remove the bolts. 2. Remove the tensioner. 3. Remove the tensioner arm. 10. Remove the bolts, RH timing chain guide and the timing chain. 11. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise 600 degrees (1-2/3 times) to position the crankshaft keyway in the 11 o’clock position. This will position the LH camshafts in the neutral position. 12. Verify that the LH camshafts are in the neutral position. 13. Remove the LH timing chain and tensioner arm. 1. Remove the bolts. 2. Remove the tensioner. 3. Remove the tensioner arm.

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SECONDARY CIRCUIT CHECK CAUTION: When checking secondary voltage, do not remove spark plug wires from spark plugs No. 3 on 4-cylinder, No. 1 or 5 on 6-cylinder and No. 3 or 4 on V8 Engines. 1. Disconnect coil wire from distributor cap. Use insulated pliers to hold wire approximately 1/2″ from engine block or intake manifold. 2. Crank engine and check for spark at gap. If no spark occurs, turn off ignition switch, and check resistance of secondary coil windings. See Ignition Coil Resistance Check, Secondary Resistance. Replace ignition coil if outside specifications. 3. If spark occurred in step 2), connect coil wire to distributor cap. Remove wire from 1 spark plug. Using insulated pliers, hold wire 1/2″ from engine head while cranking engine. Check for spark. 4. If spark occurs, check for fuel problems or incorrect timing. If no sparks occur, check for defective rotor or distributor cap or for defective spark plug wires. CURRENT FLOW CHECK 1. Remove connector from ignition coil. Remove positive wire from connector, then negative wire. Connect ammeter between positive terminal of coil and disconnected positive wire. Connect jumper wire from negative terminal to good ground. 2. Turn ignition switch “ON”. Current flow should be approximately 7 amps., but should not exceed 7.6 amps. If more than 7.6 amps., replace ignition coil. 3. With ammeter still connected to coil positive terminal, remove jumper wire from negative terminal. Connect coil Green wire to negative terminal. Current flow should be approximately 4 amps. 4. If less than 3.5 amps., check for poor connections in 4-wire and 3-wire connectors or for poor ground at distributor ground screw. 5. If current flow is greater than 5 amps., the control unit is defective and must be replaced. Start engine. Normal current flow with engine running is 2.0-2.4 amps. If outside of specifications, replace control