Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 16-06-2011
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Suggested Tools: Floor Jack Jack Stands (2) Sockets: 12mm, 14mm, 15mm Socket Extensions Spring Compressor Installation Steps – FRONT SPRINGS 1. Jack the front of the car up, and support with the two jack stands. 2. Remove both front wheels from the vehicle. 3. Using a 15mm socket, remove the bolt from the lower tie arm: 4. Using a 12mm socket, remove the bolt holding the brake line in place: 5. Using a 15mm socket, remove the bolt from the lower strut clamp. 6. Using a 14mm socket, remove the bolt from the lower front sway bar linkage. 7. Support the bottom of the axle so the strut does not fall down during the next step. 8. Remove the 3 14mm strut mount bolts from the top of the strut tower, under the hood. 9. The strut/spring combo can now be removed from the vehicle. Use the spring compressor to allow the removal of the stock spring from around the strut. You will want to space the spring compressor at least 3 coils between the upper and lower “hooks” of the compressor to make sure you compress the spring enough. 10. Safely remove the compressed spring from around the stock strut and uncompress the spring slowly and evenly. Repeat steps 3-10 on the other side of the car. Installation of Aftermarket Springs 11. Compress the new spring and place over the stock strut. 12. Install the stock strut/spring “Cap” and make sure to line up one of the upper boltholes with the “bracket/clamp” plate on the bottom of the strut. This is key, as the strut will not reinstall if not done properly! a. Torque the nut onto the center strut bolt as much as possible, using a pair of pliers to hold the center post still and a wrench to turn the nut. If you don’t hold the center post still, it will spin with the nut as you get closer to the bottom. You should have 2-3 threads showing if you have tightened down all the way. b. Slowly uncompress the spring and make sure everything remains lined up, including the bottom of the spring. 13. Set the wishbone on the axle. 14. Insert the strut into the car then secure the top (3), 14mm bolts through the top of the strut tower. 15. Insert the bottom of the strut into the wishbone making sure the bottom of the strut lines up properly.
Filed Under (Chrysler) by admin on 17-03-2011
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TIMING BELT Removal 1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove upper engine torque strut attaching bolts and remove engine torque strut. See Fig. 5 . Remove engine torque strut bracket from strut tower. On PT Cruiser (Turbo), discharge and evacuate A/C system. Disconnect A/C lines at junction block near upper timing belt cover. 2. On all models, remove upper timing belt cover bolts and remove cover. See Fig. 6 . Raise vehicle on hoist and remove right front wheel. Remove splash shield. See Fig. 7 . Remove accessory drive belts. Remove crankshaft damper. See Fig. 8 . Remove pencil strut. See Fig. 2 . Remove lower engine torque strut. See Fig. 5 . 3. Disconnect exhaust system front pipe from manifold. Disconnect A/C pressure switch at rear of compressor housing. Lower vehicle and support engine with a jack. If not done previously, discharge and evacuate A/C system. Disconnect A/C lines at junction block. Remove screw attaching ground strap to strut bracket. Remove torque strut bracket from strut tower. Remove upper radiator closure panel. Without disconnecting lines from power steering pump, remove pump and bracket and set pump aside. 4. With engine properly supported, remove right engine mount through-bolt. See Fig. 5 . Raise engine with jack until engine support bracket bolts are accessible, and remove engine support bracket. See Fig. 9 . Remove lower timing belt cover bolts and remove cover. See Fig. 6 . CAUTION: When aligning crankshaft and camshaft timing marks, always rotate engine from crankshaft. Camshaft should not be rotated after timing belt is removed, or damage to valve components may occur. CAUTION: Crankshaft sprocket TDC mark is located on the trailing edge of sprocket tooth. Failure to align trailing edge of sprocket tooth to TDC mark on oil pump housing will cause camshaft timing marks to be misaligned. 5. Before removal of timing belt, rotate crankshaft until TDC mark on oil pump housing aligns with the TDC mark on crankshaft sprocket (trailing edge of sprocket tooth). See Fig. 10 . 6. Loosen timing belt tensioner lock bolt, and insert a 6-mm Allen wrench into hexagon opening located on top plate of belt tensioner pulley. See Fig. 11 . Rotate top plate clockwise until there is enough slack in timing belt to allow for removal. If reusing old timing belt, mark belt with arrow to indicate original direction of rotation. Remove timing belt. CAUTION: If timing belt was damaged due to incorrect rotating tracking (alignment), belt tensioner pulley and bracket must be replaced as an assembly.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 22-01-2011
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ISSUE Some 2007-2008 Ford Edge and Lincoln MKX vehicles may exhibit a drift/pull concern that occurs even though the tire pressures and wheel alignment are within specifications, and the concern is not corrected by rotating the front tires left to right. ACTION Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition. SERVICE PROCEDURE Verify that drift/pull is not being caused by concerns listed in Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 204-00 drift/pull diagnostics. If normal drift/pull WSM diagnostics/procedures do not resolve the concern then refer to the following service steps. For a Right Drift/Pull 1. Inspect the left strut upper plate to verify which direction the arrow is pointing. (Figure 1) NOTE IF THE NOTCH IS VISIBLE IN THE ACCESS HOLE IN THE STRUT TOWER, THE PLATE HAS ALREADY BEEN ROTATED A POSITIVE 0.5 DEGREE. 2. If the arrow is pointing inboard as seen through the access hole in Figure 1, no rotation is necessary (positive 0.5 degree camber already there). Continue with Step 4. 3. If the arrow is pointing outboard, increase positive camber approximately 0.5 degrees on the left front wheel by rotating the upper strut plate 180 degrees. Refer to WSM, Section 204-00, Camber Adjustment – Front. NOTE DISCONNECT THE FRONT STABILIZER BAR LINK AT THE LOWER CONTROL ARM SO THAT ENOUGH CLEARANCE CAN BE OBTAINED TO ROTATE THE UPPER STRUT MOUNT. REPLACE THE STABILIZER BAR LINK NUT ON REASSEMBLY.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 22-01-2011
Tags: brake caliper,
control arm,
ford focus,
ford focus ztw,
knuckle assembly,
retainer ring,
rotor,
steering knuckle,
strut,
wheel brake,
wheel hub,
wheel speed
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1. Loosen the strut tower nuts by at least five turns. See Fig. 4 . Loosen the wheel hub retaining nut. Raise and support vehicle. Remove front wheel, brake caliper and rotor. Remove ABS wheel speed sensor (if equipped). Remove tie rod end cotter pin and nut. Using Tie Rod End Separator (211-001), remove tie rod end. See Fig. 13 . 2. Remove lower control arm nut and pinch bolt. See Fig. 15 . Separate lower control arm from steering knuckle. Remove wheel hub retaining nut. Using a suitable puller, separate wheel hub from halfshaft. See Fig. 6 . Remove strut assembly-to-steering knuckle bolt. See Fig. 3 . Remove steering knuckle. Disassembly & Reassembly 1. Using Bearing Pulling Attachment (205-D064), press wheel hub from wheel knuckle. See Fig. 7 . Remove retainer ring from wheel knuckle. See Fig. 8 . Using a suitable drift, remove front wheel bearing from wheel knuckle. See Fig. 9 . CAUTION: Avoid any impact on the wheel speed sensor ring. Make sure the wheel speed sensor ring is clean. Avoid any contact between the wheel speed sensor ring and a magnetic surface. Make sure the wheel bearing is installed into the wheel knuckle with the wheel speed sensor ring, colored black, at the wheel speed sensor end of the wheel knuckle. 2. To reassemble, reverse disassembly procedure.
Filed Under (Dodge) by admin on 06-01-2011
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SUBJECT: Front HVAC Blower Motor Resistor Connector Service MODELS: 1996 – 1997 (NS) Town & Country/Caravan/Voyager 1996 – 1997 (GS) Chrysler Voyager (International Market) SYMPTOM/CONDITION: The front Heater/Ventilation/Air Conditioning (HVAC) blower motor is inoperative; is inoperative on one or more speeds; or operates only on “HIGH” speed. DIAGNOSIS: Visually inspect the front HVAC blower motor resistor and connector terminals for corrosion. If corrosion is discovered, perform the Repair Procedure. REPAIR PROCEDURE: This bulletin involves replacing the blower motor resistor and wiring connector with revised parts. 1. If equipped, remove the bracket on the A/C line from the right side strut tower mounting stud. 2. Obtain the revised front blower motor resistor, p/n 04677180AB, (and wiring repair components if they will be required). Examine the integral retainer clips of the resistor so it is understood what/where to push in on to release the resistor from the dash panel. NOTE : DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE RESISTOR OUT OF THE DASH PANEL WITHOUT RELEASING THE CLIPS, OTHERWISE RETENTION TABS IN THE DASH PANEL WILL BE BENT MAKING IT VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE THE RESISTOR FROM THE CAVITY IN THE DASH PANEL.