Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 05-03-2011
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1) Remove covers on both sides of hatch. (below) 2) Use a 10mm socket (with extension) to remove the nuts that secure the rear tail lamps. (right) 3) Remove both of the rear tail lamps. This may require a small amount of force as there are plastic ball/socket joints that hold the lamps in place. Once the lamps are free, disconnect the wiring harnesses from the bulb sockets. (right) 4) Use a flat-head screwdriver to remove the large fasteners that secure the rear bumper underneath the car. They are somewhat difficult to remove. (left) 5) Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the screws that secure the rear bumper to the fenders. The screws are just above the wheel where the rear bumper meets the fender. (right) 6) Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the screws that secure the rear bumper to the wheel well liner. The screws are underneath the car at the very rear of the wheel wells. (left)
Filed Under (Buick) by admin on 17-08-2010
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1. Make sure you have the right glass. Front door glass part numbers are DD11277-78. 2. Remove the screw cover, back to front, under the door latch and remove the 30T Torx screw. 3. Remove the screw cover under the door-pull area and remove the two 30T Torx screws. 4. The passenger-side door panel has a different design than the driver’s side panel. Remove the screw cover from the actual door pull and the two 10-millimeter screws underneath. 5. The nine door-panel retainers have an aggressive bite, and it might feel like you’ll damage the panel during removal. However, once you’ve released one retainer, they pull off relatively easily. 6. Disconnect the door-latch linkage connector using pointed-nose pliers. Depress the locking wings and pull out from the receptacle. 7. Disconnect the wiring harnesses from the panel and doorframe. 8. Remove the door panel and set it in a safe place. Caution: The underside of the panel’s top edge is sharp and can cause injury. 9. Remove the weather barrier and upper grommet that fills the access hole for the front mounting bolt. Remove the front mounting bolt. Carefully lower the glass to align the rear mounting bolt with the lower access hole. Remove the 10-mil- limeter nut from the glass and regulator. Note: You do not need to remove the black foam spacer located in the access hole to access the retaining bolts. 10. Lift the glass from the door. Installation 11. Insert the glass nose-first into the doorframe and align the front and rear glass edge in the vertical run guides. 12. Lower the glass to the lower access hole and attach the rear mounting bolt. Tighten by hand. 13. Raise the regulator to the upper access hole. Attach the front mounting bolt and tighten. 14. Return to the rear mounting bolt and tighten. 15. Reset the express-up feature. Note: The following instructions may not be correct for this vehicle. At press time, the service manual did not include reset instructions. What fol- lows are past instructions for GM vehicles. 16. Close the door to re-initialize the window. 17. Turn on the ignition, but do not turn on the engine. 18. Run the window to the full “up” position and hold the switch for at least half a second. 19. Run the window to the full “down” position and hold the switch for at least half a second. 20. Repeat as often as necessary for the express-up feature to reset. 21. Re-install the door panel and all attachments to the doorframe in reverse order of removal. 22. You have completed the removal and replacement of the front door glass.
Filed Under (Mazda) by admin on 29-07-2010
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GENERATOR INSPECTION Generator Warning Light 1. Verify that the battery is fully charged. 2. Verify that the drive belt deflection/tension is correct. 3. Turn the ignition switch to ON and verify that the generator warning light comes on. 4. If not, inspect the generator warning light, wiring harnesses between the battery, generator warning light, and PCM terminal 1 ohm . When the generator warning light and the wiring harnesses are okay, replace the PCM. 5. Verify that the generator warning light goes out after the engine is started. 6. If not, verify the diagnostic trouble code No.8 displayed. Generator Voltage 1. Verify that the battery is fully charged. 2. Verify that the drive belt deflection/tension is within the specification. 3. Turn off all electrical loads. 4. Turn the ignition switch to START and verify that the generator turns smoothly without any noise while the engine is running.
Filed Under (Ford) by admin on 21-06-2010
Tags: breakout box,
diagnostic aids,
diagnostic cable,
distributor base,
distributor ignition,
Ford Mustang,
inductive timing light,
intermittent failures,
plug wires,
spark plug,
starter switch,
system tests,
vacuum hoses,
volt ohmmeter,
wiring harnesses
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Perform following preliminary checks: Visually inspect engine compartment to verify vacuum hoses and spark plug wires are properly routed/securely connected. Examine all wiring harnesses and connectors for damage. Ensure ICM is securely mounted to distributor base or cowl. Ensure battery is fully charged. All accessories should be off during diagnosis. Test Equipment Following test equipment should be used in DI system tests. Spark Tester (D81P-6666-A Or D89P-6666-A) Digital Volt-Ohmmeter (DVOM) 12-Volt Test Light Remote Starter Switch EEC-IV Diagnostic Cable (007-00097) EEC-IV Breakout Box (T83L-50-EEC-IV) Inductive Timing Light Ignition Intermittent Analyzer (077-00075) TFI Intermittent Analyzer (077-00035) Diagnostic Aids PINPOINT TESTS A, AA, AAA, B and C are intended to diagnose hard faults. Intermittent failures may be difficult to diagnose using these procedures. Following information should be noted during testing: